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Tania Russell – Makeup Artist

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#MakeupMonday – Prepping for Fall

Pangea Organics Facial Scrub

Pangea Organics Facial Scrub


While most women are mourning the end of Summer I am singing Hallelujah for the start of Fall! Autumn, as I’m sure I’ve mentioned before and I am certain I will mention again, is my favorite season of the year, November being my fave month (Thanksgiving and birthday month!) Admittedly this probably comes from having been born and raised in Southern California where I get all the sunny beautiful days without all the heat of summer. Makeup-wise, fall is a time of transition between the easy breezy days of summer and the deeper tones of winter. It is also likely that you’ll need to start tweaking your skincare routine a bit.

Trend-wise, Fall 2011 went refreshingly against the grain. While the tendency is to jump to dark and dramatic colors in the cooler and colder months, this year the trend is more towards a softer, more neutral palette. Soft eyes (even when “smokey”), soft lips, a soft blush of cheek and a soft matte finish is not only more wearable on the day to day for more women, it is also more flattering for more women. Dramatics can be great but the harder, darker colors can also be quite aging. Here are a few things I am loving going into Fall… Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – The Basics: Lip Moisturizers

Anita Grant Lippy Pucker Lip Balm

Anita Grant Lippy Pucker Lip Balm - Original


I have been a working makeup artist – meaning having people pay me for makeup with little or no ‘side gigs’ necessary – for going on 10 years now. I work largely with media clients although in the last few years I have started teaching a bit and also working with private clients. When you’re in the makeup biz you really do think about product a lot. Therefore for me as a beauty blogger, when I write about makeup I tend to gravitate to the latest and greatest or things that I’ve found that help me with my photographic work or things of that nature. I am frequently reminded, however, that “normal people” (aka – non makeup artists) do not think about these things at all, they just want some basic products that work so they can look their best and go on about their way. Reality is – when women find out I’m a makeup artist – they are MUCH more likely to ask me what is the best mascara or moisturizer than they are to ask about some esoteric micro makeup brand. Let’s be real: they’ve never heard of the esoteric micro-makeup brand, nor do they particularly care. Over the next few Makeup Mondays I will be going back and revisiting some basics. These are the things that real women ask me about all the time and all the time. Being a pro makeup artist I’ve gone through umpteen brands of each type of product and these are the ones that make my cut.

Now – A word about what I look for in a lip balm: First and foremost anything Petroleum based is out. Some folks love Petroleum based lip-balms and if that’s you and it is working for you then great. Keep doing you. I do not like Petroleum based lip-balms at all. They do not actually moisturize, in my opinion, nor do I like the way they feel (greasy) and then as a makeup artist I cannot use them under lip color because they make the color “slip”. Therefore there will be no Carmex, Chapstick, Rosebud Salve (although I LOVE Rosebud salve for other things), or even the ever popular Keihl’s Lip Balm #1. I look for balms that are creamy in texture and feel and are derived from natural oils often in some kind of an oil/water emulsion formula. Here then are my picks of fabulous lip moisturizers. Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – Cyber Monday Makeup Deals

Lorac Cosmetics Cyber Monday Special Collection

Lorac Cosmetics Cyber Monday Special Collection


For the past several days I’ve been receiving emails about Cyber Monday sales from some of my various favorite cosmetics lines. I’d never heard of Cyber Monday before, so I looked it up on Wikipedia and apparently it’s the online store equivalent to Black Friday. Why they can’t just have their sales on Black Friday is beyond me (and some of these sales actually did start on Black Friday), but I’m never one to turn down a good deal on makeup. With that, here are some Cyber Monday sales to catch before they’re gone. I’m posting early today so you have time to get your shop on before these sales end.

Armani
Armani has a “Friends and Family” deal going with 20% off and Free Shipping with purchases of $75 or more. Considering that Armani’s famed (well deserved fame) foundations cost $45 a bottle, it shouldn’t be difficult to reach the required purchase amount. Armani also has some nice Holiday Gifts sets going which I discuss in my Holiday Gift Sets follow up.

Bobbi Brown Cosmetics
Not really having a sale in terms of discounts on products, but they are giving free shipping and free deluxe samples with purchase. Use code HAPPY11 at checkout.

Korres
Korres is offering more discounts and offers than I can list, and being the sneaky folks that they are, they actually started their sale on Sunday. In addition, starting on Monday they will be having select hourly specials. Clearly Korres is going all out for Cyber-Monday.

Lorac
Lorac has a Cyber Monday collection featuring $100 worth of fab products for $25. While you’re at the Lorac site, don’t forget to check the VIP section for great discounts on discontinued items.

Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
OCC is offering 20% off of it’s fabulous Lip Tars in a one day only sale. Shop now or forever hold your peace. Enter code CYBER 2010.

Peter Thomas Roth Skincare
Peter Thomas Roth is an amazing skincare line and it is what I use in my kit along with Dermalogica. PTR rarely discounts, but they are having one now: 20% off excluding sale items, use code FRI2010. Take advantage of this rare opportunity. I sure am!

Smashbox Cosmetics -
They are currently having another Friends and Family sale, and it ends on Monday. Enter code FFSB20 at checkout.

Stila
You can get 20% off online purchases with the code STILALOVES . However, that’s not the big deal. The Big Deal beginning on Cyber Monday from Stila is the online warehouse sale. 80% off selected items. Yes. 80% off. Run don’t walk because even though the online warehouse sale is through December 3rd, items will sell out quickly. Go here for Stila’s Online Warehouse sale.

Shu Uemura
My beloved Shu is having a 20% off purchases of $50 or more. Shu always offers free shipping for purchases over $50, so that makes this is a nice little deal. As we in the US can no longer go to stores or counters for our Shu Uemura needs, these online sales will have to suffice. Use code WISH2010

Tarte
Tarte is having a nice little “secret” sale. 30% off sitewide (15% off limited-edition holiday items) PLUS get FREE charcoal emphasEYES & FREE shipping when you spend $25 or more. Use code CYBERMON

Three Custom Color -
Three Custom Color has jumped into the fold with a cyber monday special of their own. Through midnight tonight you can get 35% off. Use code cybermonday. And as always, 3CC (as we pros call them) offers free shipping on orders of $75 or more.

Urban Decay
Presumably to make way for new product, Urban Decay is selling off select items of some of its most beloved products at unbelievable discounts.

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#MakeupMonday – Top Lipglosses

Tarte Double Ended Lipgloss in Rhett and Scarlett

Tarte Double Ended Lipgloss in Rhett and Scarlett


Some women gravitate to eye makeup, some women to lip makeup. Without a doubt, I am a lip woman, specifically I am a lipgloss gal. No matter how many I own, I always buy more HOWEVER some do stand above the rest. Here then are my picks for Best Lipglosses;

5) Cargo Cosmetics – Lipgloss
This would be higher on the list save for the fact that Cargo changed the configuration and color selection of this item. They used to be lipgloss duos and they were the BEST ever. Now I see they are quads and they didn’t keep any of the same color names. I’m still going to recommend it, however, for a couple of reasons. First of all, the actual formulation of Cargo’s lipgloss was always fantastic; smooth and creamy and full coverage without being sticky or gloopy. Secondly, the amount of product was quite generous. Dunno if it’s still as generous now that it’s a quad, however, the tin is larger and deeper than most tubes AND you can scoop every last bit out. Not sure what the new colors are like but when you’re in Sephora, Cargo is always worth checking out. Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – A Change of Season…

Nars' Orgasm Illuminator

Nars' Orgasm Illuminator


With Spring being well underway, you may be noticing a change in the cosmetics landscape. Actually, cosmetics companies have already started introducing their Summer collections, so now is the time of year to rethink and recharge your beauty routine. By recharge & rethink, I do not mean run out and buy a zillion more new products and totally change how you do your makeup (unless you want to :) ). Instead, it’s about changing applications and textures, and going for a more easy approach. I call this time of year the “Lighten Up, Brighten Up” time of year.

1) Foundation – If you’re a foundation wearer, changing formulation can be the simplest way to lighten up your routine. Try going with a tinted moisturizer instead of a full bodied foundation. With the changes in makeup technology over the last few years, you can get a surprising amount of coverage in a lighter-weight formulation. Ones to try; Josie Maran (light coverage) and Korres (a bit more coverage)

Continue reading →

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The Makeup Show – Assorted Highlights from Day One

Speakers/Education:
- Joanna Schlip: Joanna Schlip has the type of career most people who enter this industry hope to have, yet so few new artists seem to know about her. I make it a point to see Joanna speak whenever she does if nothing else but for inspiration at this point. She is PURE walk, no talk and her resume and portfolio speak for themselves. This was a particularly great session with Joanna because she was actually doing a live demo. What a rare treat to see a master artist at work!

- Working in L.A.: The “Working In” series is a staple of the Powder Group’s education series. Personally, having worked my whole career in Los Angeles, I think L.A. is a tricky market and I was interested to hear what the panelists – Koren Zander & Bryin Smoot – both freelance artists along with Lori Taylor, in-house artist for Smashbox Cosmetics and Sarah Lucero, lead artist for Stila Cosmetics) and facilitated by makeup artist James Vincent – would have to say about it. I would have changed the format for this workshop just a bit. The panelists were obviously highly knowledgable, however there was no directed line of conversation. The floor was, instead, immediately opened for questions and as such the questions directed the flow of the seminar. Most of the questions were quite basic – which is fine because people are there to learn – but for artists like my friend who I was with who has already gotten herself firmly implanted on agency assist lists and is working jobs via agents as well as her own Key jobs and is definitely a more intermediate level artist – there wasn’t a whole lot of new information. Not to mention more established artists like myself (but really, I was there more in Blogger capacity). I think there is just an underlying assumption that artists at these shows are complete newbies and that’s not the case so I’d still like to see the shows develop more content for intermediate and advanced – working – artists.

Exhibitors/Shopping:
The floor was jam packed with tempting goodies. I managed to just take a walk-thru and not spend every dime I had right off the bat but here are a few of the folks I plan to go back to today;

- Korres: Y’all know how much I love Korres so ’nuff said there, but they had their fabulous Provitamin Mascara there at a show price as well as some new items I’ve not tried yet. Trade shows are a great time to try new products at great prices, and Korres is one of the few naturally derived lines that works well for both personal and professional use. If you aren’t hip to Korres already, be sure to check them out!

- Ingot: I couldn’t get to a person to get actual assistance so I’ll have to go back today but in addition to their vast array of products they have something called a “Freedom Palette” that I need to go investigate.

- Yaby: Disclaimer – Liz Yu, founder of Yaby, is a friend. However, her line is great so I don’t have to feel guilty about being completely biased. I am giving myself a late pass for just now discovering the fabulous Pearl Paint eyeshadows but I’ll be rectifying that by buying the palette today.

and the Big Winner:

-I Nuovi: I teach periodically at the MKC Academy and founder Margaret Kimura is the new Creative Director for I-Nuovi cosmetics, so I wanted to check the line out. I haven’t been this impressed with a line in a long, long time. Beautiful colors, beautiful textures, beautiful pigmentations (all the colors showed true and beautiful on my dark skintone), an impressively comprehensive array of products… I’ll be real I felt about I-Nuovi the way I thought I was going to feel about Inglot. I was completely blown away by this new line and I think I Nuovi has definite Cult Status potential.

Sadly Not At The Show – Parian Spirit. We miss you!

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Holiday Makeup Shopping

It’s the Holidays! The holidays means so many different things; fabulous food, time with family, tradition, spectacle… and for the makeup fanatic = holiday makeup sets. Every year I go crazy buying 5 times more makeup than I normally would because of these delectably seductive little sets. Whether you keep them yourself, or give them as gifts they’re just the perfect little beauty Pick Me Up… here’s the best of the bunch for 2009 (IMHO ;) )
Continue reading →

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BeautyNoir – Best Blushes for Darker Toned Beauties

Iman Cosmetics Blushes in Peace and Allure

Iman Cosmetics Blushes in Peace and Allure

I did a job recently where I had to do makeup on an African American female model who was about Phylicia Rashād’s (mom Huxtable from ‘The Cosby Show’) complexion. Both Phylicia and this model are a rich brown color, but still more fair than myself. To my dismay, I did NOT have a blush that really, really worked on her. Well, I had one, but it’s shimmery and I needed matte/satin products for this shoot (pharmaceutical ad). When searching for colors for darker skin tones either for yourself or for your kit, the issue isn’t needing a darker color necessarily (although that’s obviously sometimes the case), the issue is needing higher pigmentation. You’re dealing with skin that already has it’s own measure of pigmentation so in order for color to show it needs to have a measure of potency. This led me to search for blushes for darker complexions, and let me tell you – it was a search. I thought I’d find some info online since there are always so many “Best Of” lists – nope. Searched some magazines – nope. I had to pull out the Do It Yourself kit and actually get in the car and hit the pavement to find the best blushes for darker toned beauties. Here’s what I found; Continue reading →

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