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Tania Russell – Makeup Artist

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#MakeupMonday – The Basics: Foundations

Bare Escentuals Matte Mineral Foundation Powder

Bare Escentuals Matte Mineral Foundation Powder in Deepest Deep - the shade I use on myself


Ah foundation… to Foundation or not Foundation. That is the question. Well the correct answer, in my ever so humble opinion, is a resounding: It Depends. It depends on a variety of factors, actually. Is this for everyday or for photography? If it is for photography what type of photography and what type of finish do you want? If it is for everyday what type of skin do you have and what kind of coverage do you need? Then there is the issue of matching the color properly. No two women are exactly the same coloring yet manufacturers can only produce so many colors in a line, and for years women of color were left out completely (fortunately those days are long over and most lines include shades for all women). No wonder so many women have a hard time picking the right foundation! Well, I am here to share what I know in the hope that it will help you make a better choice on your next foundation purchase. The right makeup will make the world think you have fabulously perfect skin, even if you – like myself – do not. Also, I am focusing on true foundations, not tinted moisturizers. Personally, I think a Foundation is a better purchase because when you want fuller coverage you have it, but if you want more of a tinted moisturizer all you have to do is mix any of the below (except for the Powder foundation) with the moisturizer of your choice and voila! You now have a perfect color match Tinted Moisturizer. Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – Spring Fling 2011

Happy Spring!

Today is the official first day of spring, but if you are experiencing the kind of weather I am, it does not yet feel like it! Even here in “sunny” California we are having cold and rain, and actually I went on a camping trip this past weekend and had to deal with driving wind, rain, hail and even some snow. Yikes! Weather like that only makes feeling pretty with bright fresh color seem all the more special and important. All the cosmetics lines have been rolling out their Spring collections for the past few weeks and after having tried some*, here’s my picks for the some of the best of the lot.

sonia kashuk cosmetics great awakenings face palette
1 ) Sonia Kashuk Cosmetics – Great Awakenings Face Palette
At the top of the list has to be this fantastic palette by Sonia Kashuk Cosmetics. Included are 4 “more than” neutral eye-colors, a deep brown powder/cake eyeliner, a perfect pinky/peachy blush and three pretty lipglosses. All for $19.99! And if you have never tried Sonia Kashuk Cosmetics, her line is en par with any department store brand, full stop. I cannot big-up the Sonia Kashuk line enough, they are definitely my favorite mass-market brand. This palette is yet another reason why. NOTE: This palette is a limited edition item so run don’t walk!

Iman Cosmetics Eye-Con Collection
2 ) Iman Cosmetics – Eye-Con Collection
My other favorite mass market brand is Iman, and Iman Cosmetics makes luxury affordable for women of color. The Eye-Con palette is a fantastic addition to the line because so often women of color cannot join in on the fun, trendy spring colors because most (non-professional) eyeshadows are not pigmented enough to show on darker skin-tones. Iman has adapted all the “trend colors” for spring into pigmented yet wearable formulations that go on smoothly and last long. This is a great palette.

Jouer Cosmetics Glisten Brightening Powder
3 ) Jouer Cosmetics Glisten Up collection
Jouer’s Glisten Up collection is exactly what you want for Spring: light and airy colors and formulations to brighten you up from the doldrums of winter. Taking a cue from the last series of Fashion Week runways, Jouer has gone with a shimmer inspired theme. My favorite item out of the collection is the versatile Glisten Brightening Powder. We Makeup Artists swear by products like these to add sheen and light to the face and body. What is particularly nice about Jouer’s version is it is finely milled so your face is glowy not sparkle-y. The lipglosses are sparkle-y so a little goes a long way, but a touch in the center of the lower lip makes lips look fuller or a sheer sweep over the entire lip takes your face from day to night in an instant.

Maquillage Givenchy Siena Silhouette eye palette
4 ) Givenchy Collection Printemps-Eté Naïvement Couture –
Leave it to the French to interpret Spring quite differently. This collection features some of the “light and airy” color stories that you would expect for spring, but mixed in are interesting smokier, sultrier combinations. Givenchy is famous for their “Prisme Quads” which are 4 complimentary colors in one palette which can be used singularly or in any combination to achieve a myriad of colors. Not necessarily for a makeup newbie, but for the serious artiste Givenchy products are consistently amazing.

Paul and Joe Beauty Lipstick C
5 ) Paul and Joe – Parasol Collection
Paul and Joe is an “atelier” line out of France which I love. They are kind of “cult” and rather difficult to get, although it’s becoming easier since making their way into Beauty Habit and some Sephora stores. Los Angeles makeup artists and other makeup-istas in the know have always had access to them via the fabulous Beauty Closet store. What I love about this collection are the colors – which are the perfect kind of pastel, IMO, soft but not too “white” in cast – and the rich formulations. Paul and Joe cosmetics really feel like no other…and they wear incredibly well. Often times softer colors drift and either fade away or do not stay “true”. Once you apply these colors they are on and they stay on and stay the same beautiful color. My personal pick is the Lipstick C which comes in three shades of perfectly pretty pinks (color shown is “Afternoon Delight”).

*I generally do not review a product until I have actually tried it in some form of a Real World application, usually on one of my jobs/photoshoots. While I do receive product as a professional makeup artist (usually from editorial credits), none of the products discussed were given to me. These are all products I have purchased to try out in my Kit.

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#MakeupMonday – Liquid Eyeliner

teenprommakeupbytaniarussell

Makeup by Tania D. Rusell / © N. Horne for Teen Prom

Liquid Eyeliner is emerging as a trend for Fall 2010 makeup. Truth be told, however, the timeless look of liquid eyeliner is never out of style. Just one sweep of the brush can transform a look from casual to dressy giving your eyes instant pop. A lot of women have trouble with liquid eyeliner and it’s true, it’s not easy. However, it’s makeup not neuro-surgery and with a little practice you, too, can become a liquid eyeliner master. Continue reading →

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BeautyNoir – Best Blushes for Darker Toned Beauties

Iman Cosmetics Blushes in Peace and Allure

Iman Cosmetics Blushes in Peace and Allure

I did a job recently where I had to do makeup on an African American female model who was about Phylicia Rashād’s (mom Huxtable from ‘The Cosby Show’) complexion. Both Phylicia and this model are a rich brown color, but still more fair than myself. To my dismay, I did NOT have a blush that really, really worked on her. Well, I had one, but it’s shimmery and I needed matte/satin products for this shoot (pharmaceutical ad). When searching for colors for darker skin tones either for yourself or for your kit, the issue isn’t needing a darker color necessarily (although that’s obviously sometimes the case), the issue is needing higher pigmentation. You’re dealing with skin that already has it’s own measure of pigmentation so in order for color to show it needs to have a measure of potency. This led me to search for blushes for darker complexions, and let me tell you – it was a search. I thought I’d find some info online since there are always so many “Best Of” lists – nope. Searched some magazines – nope. I had to pull out the Do It Yourself kit and actually get in the car and hit the pavement to find the best blushes for darker toned beauties. Here’s what I found; Continue reading →

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Top Ten Makeup Products Without Which I Would Die

As a makeup enthusiast and product junkie I love knowing what’s new in makeup-landia; what the trends are, what the hot new brands are, etc. As a makeup artist, however, I have to temper my enthusiasm with what works. Sometimes all you have 10-15 minutes to do the job and it needs to look like you spent an hour. This is where your Stand By products come in. No time for experimentation; I need to reach in, grab a product, and know exactly what it’s going to do. If you’re an aspiring artist, take note as many of these products are unilaterally loved by makeup artists all over. Makeup aficionados take note as many of these products are what artists are actually using, even when they say they’re using something else. ;)

Here then are my Top Ten products: Continue reading →

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