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Tania Russell – Makeup Artist

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#MakeupMonday – The Basics: Brushes I

makeup to go tania d russell makeup brushes

a selection of brushes from one of my many brush rolls…


Yep, it’s Tuesday. As I mentioned a couple of times in the last few days, something has been going on with my web host’s servers so we have been having some tech problems here in MTG-land. Better late than never… enjoy. :)

Returning to our series The Basics, I decided to write about brushes. I would say in my private lessons/teaching this is the item I’m asked about third/fourth most often (behind mascara, foundation and concealer). For makeup artists, however, this is the A-#1 priority. Bottom line while, yes, some products are obviously better than others, with the right tools pretty much any makeup can be applied seamlessly and flawlessly. I love my brushes. LOVE my brushes. In fact I wrote an ode to one of them when I lost it. That is how attached artists become to their brushes. Once you get used to using them and see how the right tool can change your makeup life, you too will be come attached. For this installment, I will be discussing purchasing brushes. Then in a future installment, I will talk about using them.

What To look For
When considering a new brush I look at Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – 2013 The Makeup Show LA Postscript

makeup to go at the makeup show los angeles 2013

So the 2013 Los Angeles Makeup Show is a wrap and I’d have to say it was a rousing success. This year’s show featured some of the best in the biz and had something for all artists working in all mediums at all levels. Here’s a photo essay of the Makeup to Go experience of the show…

makeup to go at the makeup show los angeles 2013

my show started at the Bloggers Preview. Many thanks to Make Up For Ever, Temptu, OCC Makeup, Ellis Faas, Kevyn Aucoin, Bdellium tools, Ofra Cosmetics, Model In A Bottle, Stila, Anastasia of Beverly Hills, Crown Brush, T3, Cinema Secrets, Jouer, Monda, Embryolisse, Senna Cosmetics, Youngblood Cosmetics, and Gorgeous Cosmetics for their generosity!


Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – Products Roundup 2012/2013

pile of makeup stock photo

OK. Back to the fun stuff; talking about product!

We here at Makeup to Go, like most other makeup artists, meet new makeup products all the time. While many products become acquaintances, few become friends, and even fewer still be come Kit Must Haves. So for Makeup to Go’s inaugural “Best of” list, we’re doing it a bit differently. We’re talking only about the products that really stuck in our kit. So some products may not be “according to Hoyle” brand new, but instead they are the products that made their way into our kits in 2012, AND we’re projecting which products we’d like to get to know better for 2013.

Delia’s Picks

Best of 2012

obsessive compulsive cosmetics lip tar anime
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics LipTar in Anime
A powerful punch of pink (nice alliteration, huh?) that is also pretty universally flattering. I love this one, too.

L'Oreal Voluminous Smoldering eyliner
L’Oreal Voluminous Smoldering Liner in Black
Big, fat, juicy and smooth eyeliner that is truly BLACK. Reminiscent of Benefit Cosmetic’s “BadGal” eyeliner.

lorac cosmetics pro eyeshadow palette
LORAC Pro Palette
Delia and I decided that this palette of neutral colors in both matte and shimmer formulations is not only the business, it is the Entire Corporation.

inglot amc cream blush
Inglot Cream Blushes 87 & 82
Inglot has been formulating for other brands for years so when they started selling their own cosmetics line buzz grew immediately, and thus far all products tried have lived up to the hype.

bdellium tools contour brush
Bdellium Tools Contour brush
Rapidly growing in popularity amongst professional artists, Bdellium Tools have become synonymous with affordable excellence.

Looking Forward in 2013

Sam Fine Supreme Color Collection for Fashion Fair Cosmetics
See description below in “Tania’s Picks”

tom ford beauty eyeshadow quad
Tom Ford Beauty Eye Color Quads
It is easy to become fixated on the hefty price tag, but so far everything in the Tom Ford collection of cosmetics delivers.

prtty peaushun skin tight body lotion
Prtty Peaushun Skin Tight Body Lotion
I love collaborating on my blog with other artists because I, too, get to learn about new things. I’ve never heard of this product before, but I am highly intrigued to try it now.

Tania’s Picks

Best of 2012

LORAC Pro Palette
See description above in “Delia’s Picks”. LOVE!

EDIT: Did I manage to leave off my #1 product discovery of 2012? Yep! Sure Did!

dedra simple beaute by dedra foundations
Dedra (Formerly Simple Beaute by Dedra)
Clearly I was really sleepy when I was writing this article. I can’t believe I left this off! But anyway, yes, as I’ve previously mentioned (waxed rhapsodic over), the foundations are absolutely fantastic for both photographic use and street wear. Dedra was founded by celebrity makeup artist Dedra Whitt, and the newly renamed line also has 6 new products coming out very soon. Look for a full feature + interview on “Dedra” shortly.(photo is of the original foundation stick)

tarte amazonian clay waterproof cream eyeshadow
Tarte Cosmetics Amazonian Clay Waterproof Cream Eyeshadow
For years pepole have been rightfully afraid of cream eyeshadow because of their tendency to fade and slip. Modern formulations of cream shadows have corrected these issues. Not only do these Tarte Amazonian Clay cream eyeshadows not cause makeup to fade away faster, I often use them as a base to make eyeshadow last longer and eliminate creasing. AND unlike a lot of shadow primers, these eyeshadows are moisturizing instead of drying on delicate eyelids.

revlon cosmetics colorburst lip butter
Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter
I always love products like these, I have previously professed my love for the Korres Lip Butters. Like the Korres butters, I use them for natural beauty shoots, lifestyle shoots, kids grooming shoots AND on myself. These feel fantastic and give a nice pop of color. Revlon’s ColorBurst Lip Butters are yet another item in Revlon’s long line of excellent lip color products.

ROUGE PUR COUTURE Vernis À Lèvres Glossy Stain
Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres Glossy Stain
Like most women, I experience a disconnect between the hope and the reality of most lip stains. The hope is that the lipcolor will be comfortable and long-lasting. The reality is either or; either it is creamy enough to feel good at which point it does not last long, or it is long lasting but it is drying and feels weird. I discovered the YSL lipstains last year and haven’t looked back. The Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres fulfills in both hope and reality with a nice glossy finish to boot!

nars larger than life longlasting eyeliner
NARS Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner
I do not remember when exactly these came out (I think maybe late 2011) but they became a kit staple in 2012. Like lip-stains, long wear eyeliners often present a dilemma. You want eyeliner that lasts, but you need eyeliner to be smooth and glide on easily and smudge when desired. Nars’ Larger Than Life Longwear Eyeliner is smooth and creamy, easily blend-able and stays put once set. And it comes in fantastic colors.

Looking Forward in 2013

fashion fair cosmetics sam fine supreme color collection
Sam Fine Supreme Color Collection for Fashion Fair Cosmetics
Sam Fine has been working with Fashion Fair on updating the line for a few years now. His latest collection features a brilliant array of colors geared towards the needs of African American – and other deeper complexioned – women. Not familiar with Fashion Fair? I’ll be featuring a full review of this collection, and giving a history on the line soon!

laura mercier caviar stick eyeshadow
Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colours
I’m a little late to the game on these, but they are fab. The formulation is luxurious, the texture is creamy and smooth and the colors are rich and radient. And for the “home user” the roll up stick makes application a breeze. The late Nixie Cosmetics had a product similar to this back in the day. This is the ultimate upgrade.

nars radient creamy concealer
NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer
I was in the NARS store in LA yesterday and these were on display although not yet available for sale. They aren’t even on the Nars site yet, hence no link. But these are a liqui-cream concealer in a tube and they were amazing when I played with them. You can read more about them on the Temptalia blog, and I’m sure I’ll talk about them more when I get my hands on them.

bobbi brown retouching powder
Bobbi Brown Skin Perfecting Retouching Powder
Makeup artists have long known the power of colored powders. Not colors to “match your skintone” which, depending on your skintone, can often be a very bad idea – but colors to enhance, correct and finish your makeup applications. Theatrical brands (Ben Nye, Mehron, Kryolan, etc) have long had these powders available, but now Bobbi Brown is bringing them to the mass market. It will likely take a moment to get used to using these powders, but the payoff is worth it.

and not a product but…

NARS & TOPSHOP STORES OPEN IN LOS ANGELES – WOOHOOOOO!
Nars opened a boutique on Melrose in October 2012 and TopShop opened in the Grove in February 2013. YES YES YES!!!!

Now you tell us: What new products or brands are you looking most forward to so far in 2013?

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Sale Alert: Stila Warehouse Sale – Summer Edition

20120717-095921.jpg

Stila has announced that their Warehouse Sale is upcoming July 28th. This is not one of their online “warehouse” sales, this is the big mamma jamma in an actual warehouse in Downtown LA where you walk in with cash (or credit card) in hand and you walk out with product in hand at incredible prices. I’ve come to think of the Warehouse Sale as being a Holiday season event, but actually I do think the first one I (unsuccessfully) went to might have been in the Summer…I don’t know if this means there will be another Warehouse Sale this winter or if this is your one shot at greatness for 2012 (the physical Warehouse Sale has historically been a once-a-year event).

In any event Stila fanatics from all over will start lining up in the wee hours to catch these amazing deals. By the afternoon the line is crazy long, your wait will be long (hours) and if you do get in most of the real goodies will be sold out (what happened to me that first unsuccessful trip). In my opinion the best way to be a part of the event is to embrace it with a spirit of adventure, grab some buddies and lawn chairs and line up at 6am, and get while the gettin is good!

(sorry for any type-os…this post is being sent remotely from my iPad)

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#MakeupMonday – Mature Skin Makeup

40 something project by photographer richard radstone

© R. Radstone
Makeup / Hair – Tania D. Russell


As a makeup artist I have obviously worked on every type of face there is, including mature talent from middle age to quite elderly. If you have only ever worked on 19 year old models with perfect skin, working on a mature client can seem quite daunting but it need not be. Working on mature clientele – or working on yourself if your skin is starting to show signs of “maturity” – is just a matter of knowing how products work on the skin and what products to use when.

Generally speaking when you are talking about mature skin the main issues are a loss of elasticity and moisture. This is how we develop lines, under-eye circles, and the overall appearance of sagging skin. Another concern may also be uneven skintone and texture. This is skin that has been around a while and has seen a few things, hence it needs extra care. For successful makeup on mature skins there are two equally important components; selection of proper cosmetic products – which we’ll get to in a minute – and prepping the skin thoroughly with proper skincare.

Skincare


perricone md advanced firming serum
1 ) Perricone, MD - Advanced Face Firming Activator
I was introduced to this by a client who wouldn’t let me make-up her face without using it and I have had it in my kit ever since. What I like about this product vs. other firming products I have tried is how fast-acting it is while still being gentle. If you purchase this for yourself most users see an overall improvement in the texture and tone of their skin continued use. Yes, it is pricey, but it has proven to me to be a worthwhile investment.


kinerase intensive eye treatment

kinerase under eye rescue crea

2 ) Kinerase – Intensive Eye Cream and Under Eye Rescue
I was first introduced to the Kinerase line in 2005 or so and their eye creams quickly became my favorites for mature and/or extra dry skin. I first tried the Intensive Eye Cream which is a heavy moisturizing cream fantastic for night-time use when it can really help the skin repair itself. I was then introduced to the Under Eye Rescue cream and I found it to be great for immediate use under makeup. It is not as emollient as the Intensive Eye Cream so it does not cause makeup to slip and it firms to keep lines and puffiness at bay. Again, pricey but a worthwhile investment.


la prarie anti aging day cream spf 30
3 ) La Prarie - Anti Aging Day Cream SPF 30
It is really important for mature skin to wear sunscreen to help leesson the appearance of age spots and assorted uneven skin issues. This luxurious cream also contains ingredients to boost collegen production. It is the loss of collegen that causes skin to age, hence maintaining collegen levels helps all of the issues of dryness, loss of elasticity and dullness associated with mature skin.

OK so I know I just recommended 3 skin care products the least expensive of which was $80. I am a believer in good skincare. That said, however, there are less expensive alternatives that also work well.


olay total effects 7 in 1 daily moisturizer
4 ) Olay - Total Effects Daily Moisturizer
As a line Olay has become quite well known for their anti-aging skincare. This product in particular stays very popular and highly rated and for good reason. This “all in one” product hydrates, exfoliates, refines pores, and contains antioxidants to nourish the skin.


roc skin renewing serum
5 ) ROC Skin Care
The entire ROC line is an anti-aging line. Started by a french pharmacist in the 1950′s, ROC has become famous for their use of Retinol in their products. Of the extensive product line, I have used the Multi Correxion® 4-Zone Daily Moisturizer SPF 30, Multi Correxion® Lift Anti-Gravity Eye Cream, and the Multi Correxion® Skin Renewing Serum with good results.

Makeup

With makeup on mature skin it is important to bear in mind that product has both weight and texture. Therefore less is more. Likewise too much powder and in particular too much shimmer and/or glitter can settle into lines and accentuate things you or your client likely do not want to accentuate.


face atelier ultra foundation
1 ) Face Atelier -Ultra Foundation
In my opinion, silicone-based foundations do wonderful things on mature skin. Since silicone cannot settle or be absorbed into skin, it lays on top minimizing pores and fine lines. My favorite of the silicone foundations is the Ultra Foundation. The color selection is superb (there are shades for everyone from the fairest to the deepest complexions), the foundation is light in texture but fully pigmented so you need very little for complete coverage, and then it sets without the need for powder and once it sets it lasts pretty much all day. This is a fabulous product. Pro Tip: Ultra Foundation photographs beautifully, and it is the foundation of choice for many top makeup artists.


illuminaire all day eye cream
2 ) Illuminare – All Day Eye Color
On mature skin I like to use cream products as much as possible. I find it does not settle as much into any creases, and it adds a more luminous glow to the skin. These Illuminare eyeshadows are weightless, go on smoothly and do not crease. They come in an array of great neutrals in a semi-matte finish to create a variety of daytime and nighttime looks. I also like to use the darker colors as eyeliners.


youngblood cosmetics luminous creme blush
3 ) Youngblood Cosmetics – Luminous Creme Blush
Cream blushes are the way to go on mature skin, in my opinion. You can layer a powder blush over your cream if you desire but, again, you want to add luminosity to the skin for a more youthful appearance. Also the cheeks tend to be an area where you can add a bit of sheen/shimmer without it being unintentionally aging. These Youngblood cream blushes are oil-free, lightweight, and long-lasting in a sheer, buildable color formulation. Pro Tip: Pink Cashmere is a go-to color in my kit.


nars cosmetics velvet matte lip pencil dolce vita

sonia kasuk velvety matte lip crayon in nudey nude
4 ) Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, Sonia Kashuk Velvety Matte Lip Crayon
Lips can be a bit tricky because if there are any lines around the lips, color can seep into those lines. I find the best way to avoid this is to give lipcolor an anchor to hold onto. Lip crayons can be worn on their own as a nice, matte lipcolor that will not move or they make a great base for lip glosses and lipsticks. Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencils are extraordinary. They feel like silk, they last forever, the colors are glorious, I could go on. Pictured is Dolce Vita which is one of my favorite colors to use as a base for other lip colors. IF however, $24 a pencil is not quite doing it for you Sonia Kashuk’s Velvety Matte Lip Crayons are a very good knockoff of homage to the Nars pencils. The Sonia Kashuk pencils do not have quite the array of colors nor do they feel as soft on the lips but they are quite comfortable to wear and the colors they do have are quite nice. I particularly like Nudey Nude when I am using this as a base for another color.


ysl beaute touche eclat
5 ) YSL Beauté – Touche Éclat
I had to put this wonder product in its own category. Not quite a concealer, not quite an illuminator, Touche Éclat is all of that and more. Used in the under-eye area it is a sweep of light that diffuses dark circles and fine lines for a bright, “wide awake” appearance. My makeup life changed when I was introduced to this miracle product. Pro Tip: I rarely wear makeup myself (I know, right?) but I do use this on myself when I go out at night and it brightens my entire appearance. Another Pro Tip: it is also great for any smile lines/creasing around the mouth.

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#IMATS Los Angeles 2012 Wrap Up

I ended up having a fantatic time at the International Makeup Artist Trade Show Los Angeles this year and I figured I’d better write about it before no one cares anymore. First a moment of full disclosure on why I am so late…

This time last week I was sitting in jury duty awaiting questioning for jury selection, and I was in more pain than I have ever been in at any point before in my life. During the previous week I had what I thought was some minor shoulder soreness, and by last Friday night I was sitting in the emergency room unable to move my right arm. Did I mention that I am a right-handed makeup artist? Eventually the pain went away but my arm remained immobile. What I had going seemed similar to a condition that can last for as long as a year or two so needless to say I was in a bit of a panic as to how I was going to take care of myself and work. Through good treatment at the emergency room, good self care at home, and a little bit of Grace, my arm regained enough mobility by Sunday for me to do a basic portraiture shoot job. A couple of days ago (say Wednesday this week) was the first time that I could sit at a computer and type without discomfort. It has been a wild week!

Therefore, needless to say all of this changed my plan for IMATS. I was originally planning to go to the Pro Night and then go for a little span of time on the two weekend days. Instead I consider myself extremely fortunate to have been well enough to attend on Sunday. And I was super fortunate to have a running buddy at the show as my friend and fab makeup artist Renee Loiz, was also going that day so we were able to meet up.

Due to my compressed schedule I was not able to attend any of the workshops, lectures, or demos. This was a real bummer as there were several on Saturday I really, really wanted to see including the incomparable Kabuki (WHICH I hear was sadly under-attended by the largely non-pro crowd on Saturday). That aside I did much more walking the floor than I had in years. Years. It just seemed like it was waaaaaaay less crazy this year than last. The usual suspects (MAC, MUFE, NYX, etc.) were bustling but otherwise Renee and I were able to walk the floor, look at and touch product, and talk to the artist/representatives at the booths. Here is the scoop on what I got…


parian spirit cosmetics brush cleaner
1 ) Parian Spirit Brush Cleaner
Gotta start with the basics and this was THE MAIN thing I needed. I had to make sure I left the Trade Show with this product in my hand. I know brush cleaners are very personal to each artist and everyone has their favorite. Parian Spirit is my favorite and it has been ever since I learned about them clear back at the very first IMATS show (yes, I’m old). NOTE: I am noticing a lot of young artists do not realize that Japonesque brush cleaner IS Parian Spirit (even says so on the Japonesque label). Instead of buying small retail bottles it makes more sense for a working artist to get the larger professional sizes of Parian Spirit. Continue reading →

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#MakeupShopping: Make Up For Ever Robertson Boulevard – LA

Make Up For Ever Los Angeles boutique

Make Up For Ever Los Angeles boutique image courtesy of MUFE


At long last I made it to the Make Up For Ever (MUFE for short) boutique in Los Angeles! I was invited to the store opening, didn’t make it. Went to the “Pro Social/Mixer”, which I wrote about. And finally after having a meeting in the same area (a section of Los Angeles I tend not to go to often) I finally said, “Let me just go to the store and see it for real this time.”. 4-ish on a Tuesday afternoon turned out to be a very good time to visit. The store was busy with clients in the artists chair, but not a zoo at all in fact I pretty much had the store to myself to look, touch and smell as makeup artists like to do.

The store is a wee little space that manages to be fully stocked with items and artists work stations without being cluttered and chaotic feeling. I am assuming that the store carries the entire line both of consumer and professional products, but I am not completely sure as unfortunately none of the artists were available to ask questions. One of the more interesting aspects of the store is that one corner is devoted to being the “Pro Atelier” area. Here they had out testers of all of the products in the store and a lighted, mirrored work area. It is described as an area for “research and inspiration” where artists can try out the products, sketch face charts if desired, etc. Apparently artists are also able to book time to bring in a client. Not sure how that would work exactly as I would guess that since this is the Make Up For Ever store they would want you to use all Make Up For Ever products. In any event I thought that was an interesting idea.
Continue reading →

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#MakeupHappenings – MUFE LA Mixer and Shecky’s Girls Night Out

Sheckys Girls Night Out LA The LookStore

Sheckys Girls Night Out LA - The LookStore's booth for The LookBag Beauty Club (event co presenter and one of the few beauty vendors at the event)


The Holiday season is underway and with it comes the start of Holiday events. I try to attend as many events as I can in general as it is important to see and be seen in this biz, but there is an extra little “something” about events during the Holidays. Two of the events I attended were open to the public and you may want to consider adding them to your Events Calendar next year.

Make Up For Ever Mixer:
Amidst much fan-fare and excitement, seminal makeup artists’ brand Make Up For Ever (MUFE) opened it’s West Coast flagship boutique this Fall. The boutique opening was a private affair, so to officially open its doors to the Los Angeles professional community the boutique held a “mixer”. For those who’ve never attended one, a mixer is basically a professional excuse to get together and have drinks with peers and colleagues. There was music and energy, goodie bags were given to attendees (a sample of the now iconic HD powder and a tube of MUFE’s waterproof mascara which is pretty much the only waterproof mascara I have found to be vaguely tolerable), wine was poured, and all of the store’s product selection was on display. Continue reading →

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Black Friday 2011: Off the Beaten Path

I previously did an article listing various Black Friday events and then I realised two important things: A ) everyone beauty blogger on the planet was surely giving the same information and that’s assuming followers of beauty blogs did not already have that information from the myriad of Black Friday emails. and B ) I do not really care about Black Friday. At all. There, I said it. I actually often participate in the anti-Black Friday event “Buy Nothing Day” and make it a point to do no shopping whatsoever on Black Friday.

When I do shop, I actually greatly prefer to support small business during this time of year. The Big Girls and Boys are going to get theirs regardless. Small business needs love too. Also if you are a pro makeup artist, there are other things to think about besides buying more product (fun though that may be :) ). Here are some cool Black Friday / Cyber Monday (my birthday!) sales that you may not have known about… Continue reading →

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#MakeupMonday – MaquillajeParaGo: Encantada con Labial Rojo

photo of red lipstick swatches

Red lipstick. Outgoing, sexy, bold and daring, red is the Porche Carrera Cabriolet of lip colors yet so many women are afraid to wear it! To help you quell this fear, for this month’s installment of Maquillaje Para Go Delia is covering the best in red lipsticks. Enjoy… (English translation follows below…)

Yo soy un firme creyente de que cualquiera persona puede usar un labial rojo. Escucho a las mujeres que dicen que no pueden usar un color rojo por que no se ve bien en ellos. Bueno a eso digo tonterías! Hay un rojo para todos. Es importante recordar que el “rojo” viene en varios tonos y no es sólo el color en la caja de lápices de colores que pensamos. Continue reading →

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