Confession time: I have breakout-prone skin. By breakouts, I mean acne.* I have battled with it my entire life right up to this current moment. It is overall much better now but my skin can still go from fabulously perfect and radiant to woefully broken out in seemingly a moment’s notice. Whether you are suffering from teenage acne or if you are like me and you are having “adult” acne, it sucks. That said, with proper care, product and makeup technique you really can lessen the impact of acne.
1 ) (Mostly) Everything You’ve Heard Is True
All the basics you have heard over the years about NOT PICKING at acne breakouts, keeping your skin clean, keep your hands off of your face, changing pillow cases, etc. is true. Additionally – and you should do this whether you have acne-prone skin or not – keep your makeup tools clean. Also, eating well and adequate hydration is always the basis of good skin care, acne or no. (Science says that it is a myth that certain foods cause acne, I’m not a doctor so I will not go there, but suffice to say my skin begs to differ.)
2 ) Cleanse Well but Do Not Over Do It
One thing people with acne prone skin often tend to do is go overboard trying to “dry” their skin out. As a makeup artist it is very common for me to see skin that is both oily and dehydrated. You need something that thoroughly cleanses, but does not strip the skin.
When Not Broken Out -
When I’m in maintenance mode, I like a non medicated cleanser like Alba Botanica’s Good and Clean Daily Detox Foaming Cleanser. Clears away excess sebum (oil), lessens redness and irritation but leaves the skin feeling refreshed and not overly tight. Good for sensitive skin as well (which my skin also can be).
During Breakouts -
I have to pull out the heavy guns and use a medicated cleanser. The long time winner for me has been Clean and Clear Continuous Control Acne Cleanser. The active ingredient is 10% Benzoyl Peroxide and it starts to clear me up pretty much immediately.
I, personally, cannot use a lot of Salicylic Acid-based products, because my skin becomes sensitive. Most normal people, however, find salicylic acid less harsh on their skin than benzoyl peroxide. If BPO gives you a problem try a salicylic based product like Burt’s Bees Natural Acne Solutions Purifying Gel Cleanser
3 ) MOISTURIZE!!!!!
This really cannot be overstated. Skin NEEDS hydration, and if you give your skin what it needs, it will actually kick up less oil. In fact, I have mentioned before that I actually use facial oils. This may seem counter intuitive for someone with oily skin but it works. If that’s more of a leap than you want to deal with, do get in the habit of using a good, hydrating moisturizer daily, your skin will love you for it. Philosophy Hope In A Jar is probably their most celebrated product. I even know of one punk-rocker who – while he was a guest judge on a TV show – would not let the makeup artists use any other products on him. Amongst the variations available nowadays are Hope in a Jar Oil Free and Hope in a Jar Daily SPF 30. In addition to keeping the skin hydrated, both are oil absorbing and leave a matte finish on the skin. Pro Makeup Artist Note: I keep both Hope in a Jar Original and Hope in a Jar Oil Free in my kit as they are perfect for photography as neither have an SPF.
4 ) Focus on Foundation but Do Not Cake It On
Makeup-wise, when you are in the midst of a breakout (or you are dealing with a client who is in the midst of a breakout) the obvious priority is to make the skin appear as smooth and even as possible. The tendency is to do a heavier overall application, but that can result in undesirable skin texture (you may actually bring out the flaws you are trying to hide) and increased oiliness and makeup slip. What you really want to pay attention to is formulation. Oil based foundations are obviously out, but water based foundations break down quickly and often do not give the coverage needed. When dealing with breakouts either on myself or on clients I like silicone-based foundations like Face Atelier Ultra Foundation.
Warning: Science Alert - Since silicone molecules are larger than skin pores they sit on top of the skin minimizing pores and oiliness and providing a perfecting, protective barrier. You do not need as much product to get a more flawless finish and silicone foundations tend not to break-down as quickly (most makeup primers are silicone based).
If you are like me and hate the feeling of full-on foundation, many BB Creams also have silicone as an ingredient. For us deeper complexion gals I am LOVING Iman Cosmetics Skin Tone Evener BB Cream. It has become my daily go-to.
For heavier/active breakouts you may also need to utilize concealer. Different artists have different techniques, I am a conceal AFTER foundation kinda gal (I like to see what the foundation covers first). I am not a fan of most of the “treat and conceal” concealers I have tried. The formulations are either too light to give real coverage or the color selection is poor, etc. etc. I suggest going for a professional grade concealer that can get the job done. A little will go a long way, you won’t need much because you’ll just be doing spot coverage the way pro artists do, and they will last a full day into the evening/night. Bobbi Brown and Laura Mercier both make excellent concealers and they make them in colors for every skintone, so when in doubt you can always turn to those classics. I want to hip you up to a couple of other great products: OCC Makeup OCC Skin: Conceal. OCC Makeup (Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics) introduced their VEGAN professional grade concealer a couple of years ago and its been a staple in my kit ever since. It is nice and creamy and blendable, but it has a dry, non-greasy, matte finish and it really covers. Also – unlike a lot of pro products – it is sold in individual colors instead of in a palette so consumers are not stuck with a bunch of extra colors they do not need. (Pros will likely want to get all of the colors for their kits.)
On more mature skin or skin with texture, cream concealers can sometimes be too heavy and cause more lines and “creepiness”. Keromask Camouflage Cream is kind of brilliant. It has all the strength of a cream concealer – and I mean a strong cream concealer like a Kryolan Dermacolor concealer – in a smooth liqui-cream formulation (like a thicker liquid). It has a very unique texture and really seems to bond with the skin so there’s no creepiness and no slipping. As a para-medical concealer it can cover anything from under-eyes to port-wine birthmarks. It is fab. It stays in my kit and accompanies me on every job.
5 ) Powder it Up
Good powder does NOT make you look cakey when properly applied. When used correctly a good powder smooths everything together for a flawless finish and makes your makeup last at least twice as long as an un-powdered face. Once again Bobbi Brown (Sheer Loose Finish Powder) and Laura Mercier (Loose Setting Powder) are hard to beat in this category. Both offer the same types of powder that professional artists use made readily available in the mass market. And both leave the skin with a beautiful finish. I do give a slight edge to Bobbi Brown just because she has the colors that pro artists tend to use (pale yellow, golden orange, etc.). If, however, you find all of that too confusing just stick to colorless/translucent and call it a day.
6 ) Above All Else Use Clean Practices!!!
Sanitizers / Spatulas / Sponges – these items are your friends. All of the aforementioned products are for naught if you do not keep your products clean and you are not sanitary in your application practices. Think like a makeup artist;
- Wash your hands before you apply your makeup or otherwise handle your face.
- Sanitize your makeup after each use using either alcohol or a sanitization product like Beauty So Clean (I personally just use 70% alcohol).
- Stop using your fingers/hands to get product out the container. Every time you do you are introducing bacteria into your product. Use products in pumps, or use a spatula to get to product in jars/pots.
- If you’re a sponge user just use a new one every day (come on now, they are not that expensive) or clean your Beauty Blender after each use.
- CLEAN YOUR BRUSHES WEEKLY AT MNIMUM. Makeup artists clean during and after every job. Brushes become a Petri dish if they are not washed regularly. Baby shampoo or shampoo-conditioner-in-one products will get it done, but I am quite partial to Clean Brush Shampoo which both deeply cleans and sanitizes your brushes.
* by breakout prone, this article is focusing on what is referred to as “common acne”/acne vulgaris. More serious skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and even severe forms acne such as cystic acne should be treated under the guidance of a dermatologist.